Small Garden Design Ideas

Small garden design ideas are not easy to find. A small garden design is different from other garden designs. Space plays an important role in small garden design ideas. The garden should not seem very populated but at the same time it should provide a complete whole to the home.

It should not be a separate entity but act as a complete unit with the house. Garden design ideas for small area generally aim to dress up the house more than formally plant trees. It can also be a peaceful area where you can rest during the evenings.

Since space is a constraint, you can make the use of curves to make the area look bigger. Curves made in a series of networks make the small space garden look bigger. All you need to do is connect those curves. Parallel curves can also be used and they help to give the impression that the space of the garden is larger than it actually is.

You can use Blue Salvia to connect three planting regions. Once you have made the garden you can shade it form the main street. For this purpose you can use a variety of plants including the Yaupon Holly. This provides a bit of privacy to your small garden.

But only trees and the size of the garden are not enough. Textures can also play a big part in expanding the size of a small garden. Though you can choose your own texture, you may also use brick for the patio area, natural stone for the walking area and a crushed rock that contrasts with the surroundings for the rest of the area.

But what if weeds strike? To combat this, you have to make use of a professional weed barrier. This ensures that weeds do not come near to your happy protected place.

These are some of the garden design ideas. The ideas above can be used to create the ideal environment for a small garden but that does not mean why you should not use your own ideas. You can also seek professional help for better small garden design ideas to help you out with the setting of your garden.

Small Garden Design Tips

There’s nothing worse than not having the space available to achieve your vision for your new garden, but a small garden design can also be seen as an advantage. After all, the less space you have, the less you have to maintain and you can create a really stunning design because you’re able to concentrate on every little detail.

Planning is crucial with any design project, but even more so when you’re working with limited space. A good starting point is to make a list of all the essential things you want in your garden. You should also get outside with your tape measure and ensure that you know the exactly how much room you have. When you bring these two crucial pieces of information together, you can really get an idea of what is realistic.

Sketch out the dimensions of your garden on a piece of paper and then start adding and positioning all of the various features you want to include. For the first time, you’ll get an impression of whether your small garden design is a realistic one. Be warned, you might have to make sacrifices on some of the more frivolous options to make way for the necessities. What you don’t want to do is overcrowd your garden, as that will make it seem even smaller.

Using garden design software is always advisable but even more so with a smaller space. You need to get an accurate idea of how everything will look from different angles and viewpoints. A simple sketch won’t give you the valuable insight that advanced software can, so take advantage of it. You can download it for free from the internet and go 3D with your design in no time.

A small garden design needn’t be a problem, as long as you don’t see it as one. Instead, visualise it as an opportunity to create something that is perfectly crafted, with attention paid to every possible detail.

Small Garden Design – Containers

Now that we have a couple feet of snow, all my gardening will be done indoors, in containers.

Practical as well as aesthetic considerations are important when selecting containers. Even the best quality wood has a limited life if it is kept in close contact with the soil. Plastic tends to bow, buckle and discolour with use. Terracotta is vulnerable to frost damage in severe weather; and only the very best reconstituted stone containers will survive a knock from a car in your forecourt. (Miller, M., Gardening in Small Spaces, GP Putnam’s Sons, New York, NY; 1983)

This quote from Michael Miller’s excellent book gives us a great starting point. So, lets talk about some guidelines for using the above-mentioned container Materials:

Wood – wood will not stay useful for long if exposed directly to soil. This is mostly because of the moisture that comes from healthy soil and regular watering. Now, wood containers are my favorite, because I love working in wood, wood is generally inexpensive, and it lasts if you use it correctly. So first, having built or purchased your wooden container, you will use some kind of exterior varnish (I like the kind made from polyurethane, available at home improvement stores). You will put at least 2 coats of varnish on every inch of the pot, inside and out, including the bottom. This is to protect the wood from the weather. Note that if you want to “go the extra mile” you can stain the wood just about any color before you varnish it.

Second, you must have some kind of liner for the inside of the pot. I like to use heavy duty yard trash bags. This plastic is not too terribly heavy-duty, but is fairly durable. Of course your container must have a drain hole in the bottom. If not, drill a hole in the bottom center about 5/8″-1″. Now, if your container is 18″ high, you will start from the corner of your trash bag and measure up about 24″ and cut. so you will now have a plastic bag triangle. take the corner of the bag, which is now the bottom of a funnel shaped bag, and thread it though the hole in the bottom of the container, pulling about 2″ of the bag through the hole (from the inside to the outside). With one hand, hold the piece of the bag at the bottom hole from the outside of the container. With the other hand, push the bag out to conform to the sides of the container. Lay your drainage rocks at the bottom of the bag. Now, from the outside bottom of the container, cut off the last 1″ of the bag sticking through the hole. The rocks will hold the bag steady so you can put the soil in, and you now have drainage at the bottom of the container. Fill with dirt, cut off the excess plastic at the top, and plant something. Remember, with this treatment your wooden containers should last a long time, but not forever.

Plastic – there are 2 types of plastic containers that I like to use, at opposite ends of the spectrum. The very plain, and the very ornate.

The very plain plastic containers are generally in the standard pot shape, and they tend to be the color of terracotta. I like these because they are very inexpensive. I like to use them for applications where the pot itself is not all that visible, such as the rear of an area with several pots. The main consideration here is that you should use these in areas where the pot itself is not subject to direct sunlight. Sunlight will fade the color, and degrade the integrity of the pot. And, of course, these pots are not terribly attractive.

On the far side of the continuum are extremely ornate plastic containers. These are generally made to look as if they were made from ornamental stone, so they are very attractive and suitable for use around entrances to the home and other focal points. These are considered a replacement or alternative to expensive cement or stone containers. Look online and at gardening stores for alternatives here. And note that since these more decorative pots will be placed in focal areas, they will probably be exposed to direct sunlight, and therefore will have a more limited useful life. But they are available in nearly all colors, shapes and styles, so you can have a lot of fun with these.

Terracotta – the majority of pots and containers available for plants will be made from terracotta. It is attractive and versatile. Moisture glides through it and helps avoid over-watering. It is available in several colors, and an almost infinite array of styles. If you don’t live in the snow belt, these pots can stay beautiful for decades. Sadly, I live in the snow belt. So, to avoid replacing all my terracotta pots, at Halloween each year, which is generally just prior to the first freeze for us, we empty all our outside terracotta plants and store them in our garage, dry. It is terracotta’s ability to transfer moisture that makes it both a great pot, and destroys it in the winter. When there are water droplets inside the terracotta (and there always is when you have it planted) and it freezes, the water droplets expand and cause the pot to deteriorate. A single winter outside in the snow will completely destroy most terracotta pots. Dry them and store them in a dry place in the winter, or you will lose them.

Stone/cement – you can find cement containers in most sizes and styles. Nowadays, you can also find cement in different colors, all the maker has to do is add a coloring agent to the cement before it is poured into the mold. Over the past 10 years as more companies have constructed more types of molds, you can find cement containers in all shapes. They stand up to the winter weather far better than terracotta. They do tend to be more expensive, but if you go to any public garden, you will see them everywhere due to their beauty and durability. As above, the only thing you have to remember with these is not to ram them with your car.

I hope you find this article useful in selecting and using containers for your small garden designs and front yard landscaping.

Small Garden Design – Blueprint For Planting A Three Season Small Space Garden

Using intensive planting techniques as well as crop rotation small garden design can be successfully achieved. Yields are high when plants are closely spaced. By growing early, mid and late season vegetables in the same space, maximum yield is realized from minimum space.

It’s amazing how much you can grow in a small space if you plant intensively and continue to plant in the same space as the seasons change.

The following is a basic plan for a compact, easily workable 4-by-4-foot garden. It can yield delicious vegetables during the growing season, and provide color and interest throughout all four seasons. Although this small garden design is only 4-by-4-feet, it can seem quite large when preparing the soil for the first time.

The garden needs at least six hours of sun a day, including mid-day sun, so choice of site is very important. This is not meant to be a hard-and-fast small garden design but a guide for planting a high-yield garden. Other vegetables can be substituted for those designated.

A great space saver is vertical planting. The plan calls for a fence bordering the northern end of the garden. This makes the best use of available space by training plants upward instead of allowing them to sprawl.

Even early in the year, the garden is productive and attractive. Spring flowering bulbs precede vegetables. Bulb planting is done in the fall.

As spring progresses, sugar snap peas climb the fence. Two broccoli plants are surrounded by Johnny jump-ups. Broccoli is the only edible that stays in the garden throughout the growing season. After the central head is cut, smaller heads form on side shoots. Lettuce is attractive in any garden. New Zealand spinach is a good, heat-tolerant substitute for regular spinach. Beets or carrots interplant well with radishes. Radishes grow quickly, ready to eat in about three weeks, and help loosen the soil for the deeper-root vegetables.

As the weather gets hotter, the early cool-season vegetables start to peter out, and are replaced with mid-season vegetables started from seed indoors or bought from a nursery or garden center. The only exception is the pole or runner beans that trellis up the fence, which grow so quickly they do not need to be started ahead of time. Sharing the fence with the beans is a tomato plant. A warm-weather variety of lettuce planted near the beans and tomatoes is slightly shaded from the harsh summer sun by the vining leaves. Nasturtium fit well between the broccoli plants. There is room for an eggplant and a sweet or hot pepper centered with a clump of chives. The front of the warm-season garden is reserved for low-growing herbs and edible flowers. Dwarf marigold and dianthus add color, spice, and even a measure of pest control to the garden.

As the weather begins to cool, the garden undergoes its final transformation. Tomatoes are left, as they will keep producing. I might sneak in a pumpkin of a very small variety along the fence. Chrysanthemums are a traditional autumnal plant.

Although this is a small garden design, it contains the basics for an attractive landscape that will last several seasons each year. The rewards for growing your own vegetables are great, not only in terms of money saved at the market, but in pride of achievement.